There’s less explanation in this post, so if you need photos of the individual procedures, see:

Two-Layer Warping: 2/2 Twill with direction changes after rows 11 and 21

Some of these instructions are also found in the previous post. This post acts both as a summary of the basic 2/2 twill process and tips, and as a tutorial on changing directions; if you’re continuing straight from the previous post, you may want to skip down to CHANGING DIRECTION.

Also, please check out my video series demonstrating the techniques described in these 2LW tutorials.

2LW Part 1—Basic Twill
2LW Part 2—Twill Changing Direction

2/2 TWILL (without direction changes)

(The last part of the instructions for rows 1-6 tell you where the needle exits the loom and which single pin it wraps to begin the next row.)

R1: Plain weave (P). Wrap Cr4 #4 pin. Insert needle in space.
R2: (O2, U2) x 7, O2, U1. Exit between two pins at Cr3; wrap 2nd pin.
R3: (O2, U2) x 7, O2, U1. Exit in the space; wrap pin #1.
R4: O1, U1, (O2, U2) x 7, O1. Exit in the space; wrap pin #1.
R5: (U2, O2) x 7, U2, O1. Exit between #2 and #3; wrap #3.
R6: U1, O1, (U2, O2) x 7, U1. Exit between #2 and #3; wrap #3.
R7: Rpt R3
R8: Rpt R4
R9: Rpt R5
R10: Rpt R6
R11: Rpt R3
R12: Rpt R4
R13: Rpt R5
R14: Rpt R6
R15: Rpt R3
R16: Rpt R4
R17: Rpt R5
R18: Rpt R6
R19: Rpt R3
R20: Rpt R4
R21: Rpt R5
R22: Rpt R6
R23: Rpt R3
R24: Rpt R4
R25: Rpt R5
R26: Rpt R6
R27: Rpt R3
R28: Rpt R4
R29: Rpt R5
R30: Rpt R6
R31: Rpt R3
(Optional) R32: R4 or P (with modifications, if necessary)

TIPS

  • Row beginning repetition: O2, O1, U2, U1… (R3, R4, R5, R6…)
  • Row ending repetition: U1, O1, O1, U1… (R3, R4, R5, R6…)
  • If not changing direction, even rows start on the even (2-4) side of the loom, odd rows start on the odd (1-3) side. (If your loom has row numbers, disregard them.)
  • Pin wrapping is as follows (from R3 on): wrap #1, skip #2, wrap #3.
  • For Optional R32—there’s usually room for this row, so add it if you’d like, although I don’t recommend it if it will interfere with your pattern. You can either continue the pattern or plain weave (you may need to take two stitches together to get it to work; it seems to work differently every time for me—I’m still experimenting with this row; see below, and previous post, for further information). UPDATE: I’ve found, with wool at least, if you warp a little more snugly there really is no need for that 32nd row.

    R32 is a fiddly row to work. Here it’s left a stray loop which can be taken care of when sewing the squares together—doesn’t look great on an individual square.

CHANGING DIRECTION

You can change direction whenever you want (even mid-row—see patterns in future posts—this post doesn’t deal with mid-row direction changes), but if you want even row distribution, remember that you have 30 rows of pattern, so you can evenly divide by 2, 3, 5, or 10. Recommended:

  • Switch after rows 6, 11, 21, and 26 OR
  • Switch after rows 11 and 21 (shown in lavender sample above) OR
  • Switch one time only—after R16 (shown in two-purple sample below)

RULES:

  • To switch directions after an odd row: repeat the row you just did (coming from the opposite side of the loom), e.g. if you just wove R5, weave R5 again.
  • To switch directions after an even row: weave the other even row, e.g. if you just wove R4, now weave R6; if you just wove R6, now weave R4.

    Finished square on the loom with direction change after R16

    On the right side of the square, you can see the end I worked in as I wove

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Stay tuned for more 2LW weaving patterns!

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