Easiest way to recognize you’re avoiding something?
It doesn’t get done … And doesn’t get done … And doesn’t get done …
How to join squares with non-matching edges
LET’S PRETEND…
Imagine that, unlike me, you want to make a project—sew squares together and arrive at something useful. Our imaginary project involves weaving “Companion Squares” that, when combined, contribute to a “Bigger Picture.” (The terms “Companion Squares” and “Bigger Picture” will be used throughout this article to describe the type of squares referred to—see photo caption.)
Example of a “Bigger Picture” made by combining “Companion Squares.” (Squares woven and photo by Bonnie Visser; used with permission. Pattern design by Suzanne Eakin.)
It’s helpful to know which corner is which when reading my blog posts because I often refer to corners and sides of the loom (or squares).
This information is also useful when it comes to joining your squares.
Please note: Corner 1 (cr1) and Corner 4 are usually interchangeable. There may be times when it matters that your squares are right side up (meaning cr1 at the bottom left), so please take care!
The following information was originally on the Facebook Pin Loom Weaving Support Group. According to new Facebook policy (as far as I understand it) the post is considered spam because of all the links it contains. I don’t want to lose the information I’ve collected, so I’m posting it here. Read More →
(for Amelia in Korea—thank you for asking!)
- Why do pin loomers use three-layer warping?
- Is it stronger?
- What are the differences between 1-, 2-, and 3-layer warping?
- How do we decide which warping method to use?
a small selection of Weave-It looms and squares
There’s less explanation in this post, so if you need photos of the individual procedures, see:
Two-Layer Warping: 2/2 Twill with direction changes after rows 11 and 21
Continuing on from the previous post, R1 is in place and, we’re ready to begin weaving a basic 2/2 twill. Make sure R1 ended by going below the #4 pin at Cr4.
R1 in place
This post begins a series of two-layer warping (2LW) instructions. I haven’t done much exploring of this weaving method, and haven’t invented many patterns yet. There are a number of patterns available in 100 Pin Loom Squares by Florencia Campos Correa and there are a few available in the vintage pattern booklets on eLoomaNation.com. And I’m in the process of inventing more.
Please check out my video series demonstrating the techniques described in this and the following posts.
2LW Part 1—Basic Twill
2LW Part 2—Twill Changing Direction
INSTRUCTIONS FOR ONE-COLOR SQUARE—two options
(I’m using stretchy wool for these squares, so it’s OK to warp more snugly.)
Samples featuring pink yarn and the Zoom Loom are the most basic method for 2LW. If you want to eliminate all the fancy distractions, follow those photos. By the way, if you are a Zoom Loom user, I strongly recommend you purchase a longer needle to make weaving more comfortable with its wide frame.
The turquoise yarn/cream-colored Weave-It photos will show how to prepare the loom if you wish to work the beginning yarn tail in as you weave. It also shows a warping variation at Cr2 that might make weaving a bit easier.
1) BASIC ONE-COLOR WARPING
Anchor the yarn tail in the notch at Cr1. (If using a different loom you can tie a slip knot, leave the yarn tail hanging, or use a method that suits you.) Warp L1 as usual. Finish at Cr2.