The Charms series patterns are among my favorites that use Warp Displacement. When I was exploring warp displacement last year I spent a lot of time figuring out exactly how to get this sucked-in X look and how best to complement the shape. For warp displacement patterns, these are quite easy to do.
Charms series
Today my Facebook Memories showed me a couple of really cool pin loom squares—a pattern I designed last year, woven with two different color set ups.
Lattice Borders Variation with Warp Displacement (Note: pattern is not featured in this post)
Easiest way to recognize you’re avoiding something?
It doesn’t get done … And doesn’t get done … And doesn’t get done …
How to join squares with non-matching edges
LET’S PRETEND…
Imagine that, unlike me, you want to make a project—sew squares together and arrive at something useful. Our imaginary project involves weaving “Companion Squares” that, when combined, contribute to a “Bigger Picture.” (The terms “Companion Squares” and “Bigger Picture” will be used throughout this article to describe the type of squares referred to—see photo caption.)
Example of a “Bigger Picture” made by combining “Companion Squares.” (Squares woven and photo by Bonnie Visser; used with permission. Pattern design by Suzanne Eakin.)
This tutorial demonstrates how to weave in the two-layer warping (2LW) manner and end up with four signature Weave-It scalloped edges. It’s just as easy as regular 2LW (if that’s any consolation), so don’t feel intimidated. (The first method I came up with was way, way worse!)
This 2″ 2LW square was woven in the “way, way worse” method of achieving four scallop edges
How to make a buttonhole—I learned this nifty trick from a book on rigid heddle weaving and saw that it would easily adapt to pin loom weaving.
Before plunging in with buttonholes on your treasured project, it’s a good idea to practice first.
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This particular blog post began as notes to self, so it might not make a lot of sense. However, it might be useful if you want to try weaving “Box of Stars” and other 2LWsq (or L2M) patterns from the library. (One benefit of manipulating L2 is that you can design centered patterns instead of running them unevenly off the top of the woven square.)
2LWsq means Two-layer warping / two-layer weaving. Warp L1 and L3, then weave L2 and L4 (or L4 then L2) in alternating rows instead of rows 1-31 consecutively. It’s a way to end up with scalloped edges instead of single wrapped edges when weaving 2LW patterns. You can then combine 2LW squares with 3LW squares in a project and use the Mattress Stitch to join them.
Box of Stars
Someone on the Facebook Pin Loom Weaving Support Group asked me the difference between single-layer warping (1LW) and two-layer warping (2LW): Why couldn’t you lay all the warps side by side instead of going through the two-layer process?
Reasonable question. After all, wouldn’t you prefer to have the top and bottom edges match the side edges? (With 2LW you get the characteristic Weave-It scallop along the top and bottom edges of your square while the sides look more like wire wrapping a post.)
I laid out a square with all the warps side by side and counted to make sure I had 31. In hindsight, I could have moved the warp at Cr3 over to the second pin. I also could have tried warping beginning at Cr4 or Cr3 or Cr2 … or even one of the sides (it’s like anarchy, isn’t it, when you abolish the rules?) I didn’t like the unvertical way it looked, but it’s interesting that weaving begins at Cr4—if you don’t tie on a second color. If you do tie on a second color, you could add it at any corner (more anarchy!).
Single-layer warping