Someone on the Facebook Pin Loom Weaving Support Group asked me the difference between single-layer warping (1LW) and two-layer warping (2LW): Why couldn’t you lay all the warps side by side instead of going through the two-layer process?

Reasonable question. After all, wouldn’t you prefer to have the top and bottom edges match the side edges? (With 2LW you get the characteristic Weave-It scallop along the top and bottom edges of your square while the sides look more like wire wrapping a post.)

I laid out a square with all the warps side by side and counted to make sure I had 31. In hindsight, I could have moved the warp at Cr3 over to the second pin. I also could have tried warping beginning at Cr4 or Cr3 or Cr2 … or even one of the sides (it’s like anarchy, isn’t it, when you abolish the rules?) I didn’t like the unvertical way it looked, but it’s interesting that weaving begins at Cr4—if you don’t tie on a second color. If you do tie on a second color, you could add it at any corner (more anarchy!).

Single-layer warping

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This post begins a series of two-layer warping (2LW) instructions. I haven’t done much exploring of this weaving method, and haven’t invented many patterns yet. There are a number of patterns available in 100 Pin Loom Squares by Florencia Campos Correa and there are a few available in the vintage pattern booklets on And I’m in the process of inventing more.


(I’m using stretchy wool for these squares, so it’s OK to warp more snugly.)

Samples featuring pink yarn and the Zoom Loom are the most basic method for 2LW. If you want to eliminate all the fancy distractions, follow those photos. By the way, if you are a Zoom Loom user, I strongly recommend you purchase a longer needle to make weaving more comfortable with its wide frame.

The turquoise yarn/cream-colored Weave-It photos will show how to prepare the loom if you wish to work the beginning yarn tail in as you weave. It also shows a warping variation at Cr2 that might make weaving a bit easier.


Anchor the yarn tail in the notch at Cr1. (If using a different loom you can tie a slip knot, leave the yarn tail hanging, or use a method that suits you.) Warp L1 as usual. Finish at Cr2.

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Yarn Tails and Working in Ends

Those oh-so-pesky, oh-so-necessary yarn tails! What to do with them???

There are lots of options. This tutorial will show you how to work the beginning yarn tail into the square while you weave, and how to work in the final tail before or after you’ve taken the square off the loom. (See end of post for Additional Resources.)

Remember, you have the option to ignore the yarn tails for now. You can work them in later or use either or both of them for sewing the squares together. It’s common practice to work in the beginning tail and save the end tail for joining the squares. My current preference is to make both tails long enough for sewing the squares together (I leave a beginning tail of 1/2 to 3/4 length around the loom which is the same length I’ll end up with when I’m finished weaving.)

About 12 inches (30 cm) of yarn at beginning and ending corners (4″ loom) is plenty for joining purposes

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