This is a Warp Displacement pattern, so you may want to review the linked post. I’ve included an explanation for how to follow the chart, but you may be frustrated if you’re not familiar with the technique.

I called this pattern Zulu because it reminds me of an African tribal shield, and because we always loved singing the “Zulu Warrior” song when I was a kid.

Zulu, front—three colorways

As I was sorting through piles of squares today, I ran across this one with a note attached: “Rejected.” I decided it was maybe worth including after all, so here it is. The original pattern is called Asian Lanterns.

Asian Lanterns Border, front

Today my Facebook Memories showed me a couple of really cool pin loom squares—a pattern I designed last year, woven with two different color set ups.

Lattice Borders Variation with Warp Displacement (Note: pattern is not featured in this post)

This one comes with written instructions! They were written on a card and the drawing was so congested (and edited too many times) I decided to draw the diagram on the computer by following the card.

Windmill went through three versions

Easiest way to recognize you’re avoiding something?

It doesn’t get done … And doesn’t get done … And doesn’t get done …

How to join squares with non-matching edges

LET’S PRETEND…

Imagine that, unlike me, you want to make a project—sew squares together and arrive at something useful. Our imaginary project involves weaving “Companion Squares” that, when combined, contribute to a “Bigger Picture.” (The terms “Companion Squares” and “Bigger Picture” will be used throughout this article to describe the type of squares referred to—see photo caption.)

Example of a “Bigger Picture” made by combining “Companion Squares.” (Squares woven and photo by Bonnie Visser; used with permission. Pattern design by Suzanne Eakin.)

It’s helpful to know which corner is which when reading my blog posts because I often refer to corners and sides of the loom (or squares).

This information is also useful when it comes to joining your squares.

Please note: Corner 1 (cr1) and Corner 4 are usually interchangeable. There may be times when it matters that your squares are right side up (meaning cr1 at the bottom left), so please take care!

Have to say, this one didn’t turn out as I’d hoped. (It’s been redesigned and needs to be rewoven.) In its defense, I designed it on graph paper–long before I began designing with charts on the computer–using the palest pencil imaginable. It was hard to see the diagram to transfer it to digital media, so I can only imagine (because I can’t remember) how difficult it must have been to design. Apparently I had no trouble following my nearly imperceptible graphite marks because I wove what I wrote. Nevertheless, while transcribing the pattern I decided to make some improvements (untested at this point, but I’m certain they’re improvements).

Before I could transfer the semi-visible drawing to the computer, I thought I’d better get a look at the original so I could know what I was trying to copy. Here’s a rough sketch of what Road to Tennessee looked like in my quilt block book.