Someone on the Facebook Pin Loom Weaving Support Group asked me the difference between single-layer warping (1LW) and two-layer warping (2LW): Why couldn’t you lay all the warps side by side instead of going through the two-layer process?

Reasonable question. After all, wouldn’t you prefer to have the top and bottom edges match the side edges? (With 2LW you get the characteristic Weave-It scallop along the top and bottom edges of your square while the sides look more like wire wrapping a post.)

I laid out a square with all the warps side by side and counted to make sure I had 31. In hindsight, I could have moved the warp at Cr3 over to the second pin. I also could have tried warping beginning at Cr4 or Cr3 or Cr2 … or even one of the sides (it’s like anarchy, isn’t it, when you abolish the rules?) I didn’t like the unvertical way it looked, but it’s interesting that weaving begins at Cr4—if you don’t tie on a second color. If you do tie on a second color, you could add it at any corner (more anarchy!).

Single-layer warping

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Judie Eatough won’t take credit for this pretty weaving draft, but she readied it for the pin loom and brought it to our attention. These are her comments: “Here is a pattern for the dogwood blossom that is a traditional Atwater-Bronson lace pattern. This one uses 3 thread warp floats. The photo is of the unwashed square done in acrylic yarn. The petals round some because the plain weave pushes into the lace areas. Use a yarn that gives you a firm plain weave square.”

Dogwood, woven by Judie Eatough

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If you need instructions on two-layer-warping (2LW), please see instructions in the posts linked below. The first post tells how to warp the loom and weave Row 1. The second post shows the needle path (where to enter and exit the loom) for the first eight rows of a 2LW pattern. For this pattern, follow the diagram below, but follow the needle path instructions; they are universal for all 2LW patterns.
2LW Part 1
2LW Part 2

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“Multi-Diamonds 4” features diamonds created by going Over and Under on front and back.

Multi-Diamonds 4—front

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If you need instructions on two-layer-warping (2LW), please see instructions in the posts linked below. The first post tells how to warp the loom and weave Row 1. The second post shows the needle path (where to enter and exit the loom) for the first eight rows of a 2LW pattern. For this pattern, follow the diagram below, but follow the needle path instructions; they are universal for all 2LW patterns.
2LW Part 1
2LW Part 2

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Maybe I just don’t do yellow well. By way of excuse, I don’t have a lot of color choices in wool.
(I didn’t add row 32 in this square.)

Multi-Diamonds 2—front

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If you need instructions on two-layer-warping (2LW), please see instructions in the posts linked below. The first post tells how to warp the loom and weave Row 1. The second post shows the needle path (where to enter and exit the loom) for the first eight rows of a 2LW pattern. For this pattern, follow the diagram below, but follow the needle path instructions; they are universal for all 2LW patterns.
2LW Part 1
2LW Part 2

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Not wild about my color choices for this square—I’d prefer a stronger contrast—but you can learn from my mistake.

Diamond Eye 3—front

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If you need instructions on two-layer-warping (2LW), please see instructions in the posts linked below. The first post tells how to warp the loom and weave Row 1. The second post shows the needle path (where to enter and exit the loom) for the first eight rows of a 2LW pattern. For this pattern, follow the diagram below, but follow the needle path instructions; they are universal for all 2LW patterns.
2LW Part 1
2LW Part 2

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“Concentric Diamonds” does not begin nor end with a plain weave row—rather daring, I thought, but it works!

Concentric Diamonds 1

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