Today my Facebook Memories showed me a couple of really cool pin loom squares—a pattern I designed last year, woven with two different color set ups.
While the above pattern is a year old, I first began exploring this technique five years ago. I didn’t understand enough about weaving back then, so it took four years before I got around to diagramming and explaining it to myself.
But I didn’t write a blog post about it last year. Now I’m saying to myself, “HOW did I do that?” Luckily I wrote down the procedure on one of the diagrams. (Please note: the diagram apparently goes with a series of photos [where are they???] that use different yarn colors.)
Let’s see if we can figure out how to weave the Warp Displacement Technique together. The pattern is called Out of Alignment 1.
Start by warping the loom with color A on L1 only, color B on L2-4. (You can use the weave in ends as you go technique, but I won’t be doing that in this post.) Use slightly stretchy yarn. If using acrylic, I recommend Bernat Satin.
Despite my yarn recommendation, I ended up using Lion Brand Heartland (Kings Canyon) and Red Heart Soft (Spearmint). Please notice that I warped L1 and L3 loosely—this is important when using acrylic yarn. And since this is a demo, I tied the yarn ends to the loom. I don’t always do that when I’m weaving—my personal preference.
R1: Plain weave
R2: Now follow the very confusing-looking chart. I’ll interpret. Start R2 from the left. Go Under the first two L1 warps. Then (Over three L3 warps, Under three L1 warps)—do this four times. End the row going O3, U2 (the same way you began the row).
R3: R3 repeats R2 (starting from the left). This row is easy because you just copy the pattern you’ve already set up.
R4: This row is challenging because you have to realign all the warps you just displaced. You have the option to plain weave this row or follow what the diagram calls “Pattern 2”: P5, (O3, P3) x 3, O3, P5. Be very careful to get the warps in the correct order. It should be fairly easy to see because your row will have alternating dark green and light green (or whatever colors you used) warps.
R5-7: Repeat R2 (Pattern 1) three times.
R8: Plain weave or follow Pattern 2 (see R4 on the diagram). The first time I wove R8, I accidentally plain wove and continued on with the displaced warp pattern for a couple of rows before I realized my mistake. I took the photos below of it before correcting the error. The difference between plain weave and Pattern 2 would show up more if the square were off the loom, but despite that, even while still on the loom, I think it looks better with Pattern 2 (which complements Pattern 1).
R9-11: Repeat R2.
R12: It becomes more difficult to replace the displaced warps as you weave the topmost rows, so be prepared for that. (This is why it’s necessary to warp somewhat loosely. Also, use the tug technique as you go along.)
R13-15: It’s challenging to re-displace the warps at this point. That’s why it helps to have fingernails, use a spare needle or crochet hook—whatever it takes—to move the warps around. You’re nearing the finish line. Be careful to NOT split the yarn as you weave over and under.
R16: Plain weave
In my opinion, the effect of displacing the warps is amazing; the square is interesting front and back. The thing that’s most difficult about this technique—besides drawing the diagram—is deciphering the diagram. I did my best, but it really is confusing, so I’ll try to always write out the instructions to go with new designs.