There’s less explanation in this post, so if you need photos of the individual procedures, see:
Two-Layer Warping: 2/2 Twill with direction changes after rows 11 and 21
Continuing on from the previous post, R1 is in place and, we’re ready to begin weaving a basic 2/2 twill. Make sure R1 ended by going below the #4 pin at Cr4.
R1 in place
This post begins a series of two-layer warping (2LW) instructions. I haven’t done much exploring of this weaving method, and haven’t invented many patterns yet. There are a number of patterns available in 100 Pin Loom Squares by Florencia Campos Correa and there are a few available in the vintage pattern booklets on eLoomaNation.com. And I’m in the process of inventing more.
Please check out my video series demonstrating the techniques described in this and the following posts.
2LW Part 1—Basic Twill
2LW Part 2—Twill Changing Direction
INSTRUCTIONS FOR ONE-COLOR SQUARE—two options
(I’m using stretchy wool for these squares, so it’s OK to warp more snugly.)
Samples featuring pink yarn and the Zoom Loom are the most basic method for 2LW. If you want to eliminate all the fancy distractions, follow those photos. By the way, if you are a Zoom Loom user, I strongly recommend you purchase a longer needle to make weaving more comfortable with its wide frame.
The turquoise yarn/cream-colored Weave-It photos will show how to prepare the loom if you wish to work the beginning yarn tail in as you weave. It also shows a warping variation at Cr2 that might make weaving a bit easier.
1) BASIC ONE-COLOR WARPING
Anchor the yarn tail in the notch at Cr1. (If using a different loom you can tie a slip knot, leave the yarn tail hanging, or use a method that suits you.) Warp L1 as usual. Finish at Cr2.
One of the gals over on the Facebook Pin Loom Weaving Support Group is always reminding us to sample and check for shrinkage. I’ve done this, like one time, so here it is!
Four squares joined with mattress stitch and washed to test for shrinkage
Recently I posted photos of this square and noticed from the photo that I’d made a mistake in Row 16 (R16)—the last row.
When a mistake is near the end of R16, it’s very easy to fix.
Mistake in R16, shown front and back
The X Stitch is generally located in the very center of the square, but it can be placed anywhere.
X, or Knot, Stitch located in the center of a 2″ square
Yarn Tails and Working in Ends
Those oh-so-pesky, oh-so-necessary yarn tails! What to do with them???
There are lots of options. This tutorial will show you how to work the beginning yarn tail into the square while you weave, and how to work in the final tail before or after you’ve taken the square off the loom. (See end of post for Additional Resources.)
Remember, you have the option to ignore the yarn tails for now. You can work them in later or use either or both of them for sewing the squares together. It’s common practice to work in the beginning tail and save the end tail for joining the squares. My current preference is to make both tails long enough for sewing the squares together (I leave a beginning tail of 1/2 to 3/4 length around the loom which is the same length I’ll end up with when I’m finished weaving.)
About 12 inches (30 cm) of yarn at beginning and ending corners (4″ loom) is plenty for joining purposes
To Knot or Not to Knot?
This is a tutorial on how to begin a square without tying a knot, how to read a chart and follow a pattern, and how to make BEAUTIFUL squares with even warp and weft distribution.
To begin, if you DO want to start your square by tying a reverse slip knot to secure the yarn to your loom, see this short video (there are obviously other parts in this six-part series, and you’re welcome to watch those as well. But be prepared to die of boredom because not only is there no plot . . . well, you’ll see).*
Tie a reverse slip knot and attach it to one of the four pins near Cr1; begin warping as usual.