Modified Two-Layer Warping (2LW) is what you might call a CHALLENGE TECHNIQUE. You can certainly weave this pattern in regular two-layer warp fashion—alternately weaving an L4, then an L2 row. You could also manipulate the layers while warping (usually referred to as Layer 2 Manipulation, or L2M). I think it’s easier to combine two- and three-layer warping-and-weaving.

Reversible Stars, front

Reversible Stars, back

Recently I’ve been doing a lot of knitting, trying out various pattern stitches (can’t keep away from exploring patterns!), and noticed that most knitting patterns look good on the front, but not the back. That’s sometimes the case with weaving, but I’d say the back often tends to at least look interesting, if not actually better than the front. Some knitters are seeking to create patterns that look good on both sides so, with that in mind, I created this pattern. It’s not truly reversible, even if you use a single color, but it’s pretty close.

I call the technique “modified 2LW” because you can use three-layer warping for part of it. And you can lay in a good deal of the rest of L2 by sliding the needle without having to do much, if any, over-and-under weaving. Here is the chart (with some notes); it’s a little busy and may be confusing so I’ve written out the instructions (including a few illustrative photos). (I took more photos of putting L2 rows in place, but didn’t want to overburden the post. If anyone needs to see them, please contact me.)

Reversible Stars—please use the BOLD numbers on the outer edges of chart when counting rows.
Light blue and blue squares are OVER,; pink and red square are UNDER.

INSTRUCTIONS

Using color 1, warp L1 and measure L2 (4 1/2 wraps around pins); cut. Lay first five wefts of L2 in place.
Tie color 2 at the top of the loom and warp L3; measure L4 (4 3/4 wraps); cut and begin weaving L4.

L1 and part of L2

R1: P
R2: P14, U3, P14
R3: Rpt R2
R4: P9, O5, P3, O5, P9
R5: Rpt R2
R6: Rpt R2

L4 rows 1-6

Weave remaining L2 rows (most of these can be put in place by sliding the needle through—or between— L1 and L3). Remember to begin L2 rows OVER.

Things to keep in mind:

  • Keep L2 rows taut when weaving L4 rows so your tension will remain consistent throughout the square.
  • Make sure to pack lower rows toward the 1-2 edge of the loom so you don’t run out of weaving room at the top.
  • Make sure to enter and exit L2 rows correctly: enter Over L1 above the pins, exit Over L1 between first and second pins.
  • Don’t get psyched out by the overs and unders in L2. They almost always go over L1 and under L3.

R6a: P6, O3, P13, O3, P6
R7a: Rpt R6a
R8a: O1, U5, P3, U5, O3, U5, P3, U5, O1
R9a: Rpt R6a
R10a: Rpt R6a
R11a-15a: P (After R11a you should be able to slide all L2 rows with ease.)

All L2 rows now in place

Tie L2 end at top of loom and go back to weaving L4.
R7-10: P
R11: Rpt R2
R12: Rpt R2
R13: Rpt R4
R14: Rpt R2
R15: Rpt R2
R16: P

Reversible Stars, front

Reversible Stars, back

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