I’ve been putting off writing this one because I thought I already had. Unlike the method in Part 5, I actually like this one a lot and have found it quite useful. For patterns that have a lot of O3s combined with U3s—particularly those with the U3/O3, O3/U3 star motif—this is a great warping configuration. (You can also use L1/2-4 for such patterns, but L1&2/3&4 will usually look better). I plan to post several new patterns soon that will show examples using this warping method (see Lattice Borders and variations for examples).
I may eventually say the same thing for all the two-layer, two-color warping configurations; I don’t use them often, but it’s useful to know how to do them when you want them. This one is probably my least favorite warping configuration which is interesting to me because it’s the same configuration generally used on a rigid heddle loom—warp one color, weft another. If you want to practice a weaving pattern you have in mind for a rigid heddle project, this pin loom warping configuration should be useful for that—especially if every odd row in your RH project is plain weave.
In all my years weaving I think I’ve only used this warping configuration once before tonight, but I could be wrong. In the green-and-white finished sample square you can see the interesting effect, along the top and bottom, of changing colors L2-only, so I’d say this configuration is worth exploring.
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WARPING THE LOOM FOR COLOR CHANGE AFTER L1