In honor of Flag Day on 14 June, here’s a pattern representing the USA flag. It’s my intention to continue the weave-along (WAL) by posting patterns for the Union Jack and, while not strictly a flag, a maple leaf for my neighbors to the north. We’ll wind up the WAL with another patriotic pattern (possibly something French for Bastille Day, 14 July).

Old Glory

L1-3: RHS “White”
L4: CSS “Harvest Red” / CSS “Dark Country Blue”

Old Glory

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For SP

A member of the Facebook Pin Loom Weaving Support Group asked me today if I knew of a weaving pattern featuring a cross. I only knew of plus-shaped crosses, so I offered to design one for her. Here are the results. I’ve included possible modifications below the instructions. After another group member, Sandi Suggs, wove up both versions, I’ve decided the change in “Cross 2” looks better, but I’m not sure changing “Cross 1” would yield good results.

Cross 1

L1-3: YBSS “Light Denim”
L4: RHS “Navy”

Cross 1

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Since people are starting to receive their Wunderwag pin loom sets, I figured I’d better get busy designing some patterns for that size. Actually a lot of the 4″ textural patterns can be woven on the 6″, but not all. For example, “Horizontal Xs” doesn’t work on the 6″ loom without modification. It has to do with the number of pins. I’m truly out of my depth here with the terminology. Some patterns are divisible by 4 and some by 2. The 2s work on the 2″, 4″, and 6″ loom, but not the 4s. 4s work on the 4″, 8″, 12″, etc.

6″ squares

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Flower 1

L1-3: CSS “Watermelon”
L4: YBSS “Olive”

Flower 1

R1: P
R2: P14, U3, P14
R3: P
R4: Rpt R2
R5: P11, O3, P17
R6: P14, U3, P2, O3, P9
R7: (P7, O3) x 2, P11
R8: P9, O3, P2, U3, P6, O3, P5
R9: P3, O3, P15, O3, P7
R10: P5, O3, P4, U3, O1, U3, P12
R11: P8, (U3, P3) x 2, U3, P8
R12: P6, U3, O1, U3, P5, U3, O1, U3, P6
R13: Rpt R11
R14: P12, U3, O1, U3, P12
R15: Rpt R2
R16: P

This version of the pattern is appropriate for this warping configuration (L1-3/L4). If using a single color, you may also use this rewritten version or the one just below.

Blue stitches are O3

 

Flower 2 (single color version)

No Sample

R1: P
R2: P14, U3, P14
R3: P
R4: Rpt R2
R5: P9, O3, U3, P16
R6: P14, U3, P3, U3, O3, P5
R7: U1, O3, U3, P9, U3, O3, P9
R8: P5, O3, U3, P3, U3, P14
R9: P24, U3, P4
R10: P12, U3, O1, U3, P12
R11: P8, (U3, P3) x 2, U3, P8
R12: P6, U3, O1, U3, P5, U3, O1, U3, P6
R13: Rpt R11
R14: Rpt R10
R15: Rpt R2
R16: P

Blue stitches are O3. Light blue stitches are optional.

Thought I’d better release the privacy setting on this post first because you’ll need these instructions for some of the patterns you’ll soon run across. THIS IS AN ADVANCED TECHNIQUE, so beginners might find it confusing—anyone might find it confusing, but go on, give it a try. To find other L2M patterns, just type L2M in the Search box.

Layer 2 Manipulation, or L2M

As a pattern weave designer I’m frequently frustrated by my inability to use the three-layer warping method and end up with a design that’s centered on the square. Anything symmetrical, it seemed, always presented the same problem: rows 8 and 9 couldn’t repeat each other (unless they were plain weave rows) without creating a gap in the final figure (see “Hourglass Pattern“).

I discovered that a simple trick of manipulating one strand on L2 took care of this problem. It also created new problems, but I’ve dealt with those as they’ve come up.

For this sample, we’ll be weaving “Farewell Maggie” version 1. (Named in honor of my Maggie‘s passing the day I began work on this pattern.)

Maggie Nov 2015

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