Although in the most technical sense, this design uses the slide technique, it doesn’t feel like it. The row is so short needle sliding is unnoticeable. The Slides pattern might be good practice for the slide technique if you’re uncomfortable with it.
This pattern can also be used on 2″ x 6″ bookmark looms.
Wall Bars designs use the Slide technique. Slide means that the needle slides between the warp layers rather than going Under the L1 warps or Over the L3 warps. The L4 weft thread will be in between the warps alongside the L2 threads on either side of it. When I count the slide stitches, I tap them with my needle to keep track of them.
Wall Bars 3, variation A
Wall Bars designs use the Slide technique. Slide means that the needle slides between the warp layers rather than going Under the L1 warps or Over the L3 warps. The L4 weft thread will be in between the warps alongside the L2 threads on either side of it. When I count the slide stitches, I tap them with my needle to keep track of them.
Wall Bars 4 variation A
It’s been a while since I designed any patterns and I guess I’ve been missing it. Here are a few variations on the “Wall Bars” pattern I designed earlier today. (You might wonder where variations 1 and 2 went. Let’s just say they went.)
Wall Bars designs use the Slide technique. Slide means that the needle slides between the warp layers rather than going Under the L1 warps or Over the L3 warps. The L4 weft thread will be in between the warps alongside the L2 threads on either side of it. When I count the slide stitches, I tap them with my needle to keep track of them.
WALL BARS 3
This one is an even and odd row repetition.
This was inspired by a member on the Facebook Pin Loom Weaving Support Group who made some mistakes in her plain woven square.
I received a request for clarification on how to make the Loomette afghan called The Charleston. The afghan is found on the eloomanation website in the book titled “The Loomette Handbook—New Weaves, Vogues and Suggestions” (1938). The Charleston is pictured on the cover; instructions are found on p 27 and 35. Unfortunately, there are no assembly instructions and no explanations for which squares go where. Without actually attempting to assemble the concoction myself, I don’t know how helpful I can be…
I hope it’s OK to use this modified version of the photo from the Loomette Handbook (see link above). It’s really helpful to be able to see the layout of the afghan.
(for Amelia in Korea—thank you for asking!)
- Why do pin loomers use three-layer warping?
- Is it stronger?
- What are the differences between 1-, 2-, and 3-layer warping?
- How do we decide which warping method to use?








