Continuing on from the previous post, R1 is in place and, we’re ready to begin weaving a basic 2/2 twill. Make sure R1 ended by going below the #4 pin at Cr4.

R1 in place

First I’ll list the pattern instructions.
Following those are some tips for weaving this design.
Lastly, there’s a photo tutorial of the first eight rows.
(The photo below shows the square on the loom.)

31 rows of 2/2 twill

Please check out my video series demonstrating the techniques described in these 2LW tutorials.

2LW Part 1—Basic Twill
2LW Part 2—Twill Changing Direction

2/2 TWILL (without direction changes)

(The last part of the instructions for rows 1-6 tell you where the needle exits the loom and which single pin it wraps to begin the next row.)

R1: Plain weave (P). Wrap Cr4 #4 pin. Insert needle in space.
R2: (O2, U2) x 7, O2, U1. Exit between two pins at Cr3; wrap 2nd pin.
R3: (O2, U2) x 7, O2, U1. Exit in the space; wrap pin #1.
R4: O1, U1, (O2, U2) x 7, O1. Exit in the space; wrap pin #1.
R5: (U2, O2) x 7, U2, O1. Exit between #2 and #3; wrap #3.
R6: U1, O1, (U2, O2) x 7, U1. Exit between #2 and #3; wrap #3.
R7: Rpt R3
R8: Rpt R4
R9: Rpt R5
R10: Rpt R6
R11: Rpt R3
R12: Rpt R4
R13: Rpt R5
R14: Rpt R6
R15: Rpt R3
R16: Rpt R4
R17: Rpt R5
R18: Rpt R6
R19: Rpt R3
R20: Rpt R4
R21: Rpt R5
R22: Rpt R6
R23: Rpt R3
R24: Rpt R4
R25: Rpt R5
R26: Rpt R6
R27: Rpt R3
R28: Rpt R4
R29: Rpt R5
R30: Rpt R6
R31: Rpt R3
(Optional) R32: R4 or P (with modifications, if necessary)

Tips to remember:

  • Row beginning repetition: O2, O1, U2, U1… (R3, R4, R5, R6…)
  • Row ending repetition: U1, O1, O1, U1… (R3, R4, R5, R6…)
  • If not changing direction, even rows start on the even (2-4) side of the loom, odd rows start on the odd (1-3) side. (If your loom has row numbers, disregard them.)
  • Pin wrapping is as follows (from R3 on): wrap #1, skip #2, wrap #3.
  • For Optional R32—there’s usually room for this row, so add it if you’d like, although I don’t recommend it if it will interfere with your pattern. You can either continue the pattern or plain weave (you may need to take two stitches together to get it to work; it seems to work differently every time for me—I’m still experimenting with this row; see below, and next post, for further information). UPDATE: I’ve found, with wool at least, if you warp a little more snugly there really is no need for that 32nd row.

PHOTO TUTORIAL OF ROWS 2-8

AFTER R1 and R2, you’ll be repeating R3-6. The odd rows (1-3 side of the loom) always start with either U2 or O2 (it will be obvious whether or not to go O or U). The even rows (2-4 side of the loom) always start O1, U1 or U1, O1 (P2). Again, it will be obvious when to go O or U.

R2: (O2, U2) x 7, O2, U1. Exit between two pins at Cr3; wrap 2nd pin.

R3: (O2, U2) x 7, O2, U1. Exit in the space; wrap pin #1.

R4: O1, U1, (O2, U2) x 7, O1. Exit in the space; wrap pin #1.

R5: (U2, O2) x 7, U2, O1. Exit between #2 and #3; wrap #3.

R6: U1, O1, (U2, O2) x 7, U1. Exit between #2 and #3; wrap #3.

R7: Rpt R3 {R3: (O2, U2) x 7, O2, U1. Exit in the space; wrap pin #1.}

R8: Rpt R4 {R4: O1, U1, (O2, U2) x 7, O1. Exit in the space; wrap pin #1.}

Nearly finished square with needle in R31

OPTIONAL ROW 32

After weaving R31, it looked like this square could easily accommodate another row (see second photo at the top of this post), so I added a 32nd row.

I added a plain weave row above R31: O1, U1, O2, P28. I weave R32 a little differently every time I use it, so it’s difficult to assign rules for the procedure. (I think it would have been better to do R32: O1, U2, P29)

Finished square still on the loom (Rows 1-32)

Finished square off the loom—It would have been better to do R32: O1, U2, P29

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The third part in this series will cover changing directions in the basic 2/2 twill.

2 Thoughts on “Two-Layer Warping (2LW) — part 2: Weaving 2/2 Twill

  1. sam drew on 6 May 2019 at 6:17 PM said:

    I’m just getting starting with my loom and I’m following your directions but I’m not able to get as many rows; I only get 20. It looks like your square so I don’t know what I’m doing differently or if it matters.

  2. Sue Burton on 7 May 2019 at 7:50 AM said:

    What kind of loom are you using? If it’s not a Zoom Loom (or equivalent), your loom may have a different number of pins and, thus, a different number of warps and wefts. Your finished piece should be a square rather than a rectangle. If you have the same number of warps (vertical threads) and wefts (horizontal threads), then you’re doing it right. If not, then I’d say there’s a mistake somewhere. However, that might not matter to you… Let me know if you have further questions; I’m happy to help.

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