Back in August I developed a new technique I call “Reverse Warping Method,” or RWM. It entails starting the warping process at Cr4, instead of Cr1. In effect L4 becomes L1 and the usual L1 becomes the weaving layer.
My first attempt with RWM was a plain weave square. The only discernible difference was that I ended up with a longer tail at Cr1 than usual; Cr4’s tail was shorter.
Horizontal Xs — traditional 3LW (left) and RWM (right)
One of my favorite joking statements is, “I’m falling apart, won’t you join me?”
Our pin loom squares, while not falling apart, still need to be joined if you want to produce some sort of finished product. There are many ways to join squares: duct tape, glue, sewing machine . . . But for a more organic result, you’ll most likely want to use yarn. And why not use those pesky ends that need to be woven in anyway? (My friend prefers to not use yarn tails because of the danger of puckering the squares as she pulls the stitches, so that’s something to consider.)
Mattress Stitch
***Please refer to Glossary page for explanation of abbreviations. See Diagrams if you need help with basic warping.***
Maple Leaf
(make two for the Fall Banner)
One-Color Sample: RHS “Tangerine”
Maple Leaf
Summer’s the time to celebrate independence and liberty. I don’t know enough about French holidays to know if you’re supposed to say, “Happy Bastille Day” (July 14), but it seems like a thing to celebrate to me. I also don’t know anything about French politics, but I embrace the basic concept of liberty, equality, and brotherhood.
In “Old Glory” we learned how to change colors during L4. This tutorial will demonstrate “fussy” color changing in the warping layers. I use a reverse slip knot to secure yarn quickly to the loom (I use my fingers to make the knot rather than a crochet hook). It’s easy to untie after the square is off the loom.
Liberté, Égalité, Fraternité
L1&3: BS “Loyal Royal,” RHS “White,” RHS “Really Red”
L2&4: RHS “White”
Liberté, Égalité, Fraternité
Thought I’d better release the privacy setting on this post first because you’ll need these instructions for some of the patterns you’ll soon run across. THIS IS AN ADVANCED TECHNIQUE, so beginners might find it confusing—anyone might find it confusing, but go on, give it a try. To find other L2M patterns, just type L2M in the Search box.
For a very simple L2M of the Hourglass pattern, see this blog post.
As a pattern weave designer I’m frequently frustrated by my inability to use the three-layer warping method and end up with a design that’s centered on the square. Anything symmetrical, it seemed, always presented the same problem: rows 8 and 9 couldn’t repeat each other (unless they were plain weave rows) without creating a gap in the final figure (see “Hourglass Pattern“).
I discovered that a simple trick of manipulating one strand on L2 took care of this problem. It also created new problems, but I’ve dealt with those as they’ve come up.
For this sample, we’ll be weaving “Farewell Maggie” version 1. (Named in honor of my Maggie‘s passing the day I began work on this pattern.)
Maggie Nov 2015