(for Amelia in Korea—thank you for asking!)
- Why do pin loomers use three-layer warping?
- Is it stronger?
- What are the differences between 1-, 2-, and 3-layer warping?
- How do we decide which warping method to use?
(for Amelia in Korea—thank you for asking!)
Here are the instructions for the pattern I wove for the previous post. According to Judie Eatough and Handweaving.net, this draft (weaving pattern) has no name, only a number, but I like to name things. The draft looked like thistle blossoms to me. It was woven with the 1LW method, but is suitable for 2LW as well.
Someone on the Facebook Pin Loom Weaving Support Group asked me the difference between single-layer warping (1LW) and two-layer warping (2LW): Why couldn’t you lay all the warps side by side instead of going through the two-layer process?
Reasonable question. After all, wouldn’t you prefer to have the top and bottom edges match the side edges? (With 2LW you get the characteristic Weave-It scallop along the top and bottom edges of your square while the sides look more like wire wrapping a post.)
I laid out a square with all the warps side by side and counted to make sure I had 31. In hindsight, I could have moved the warp at Cr3 over to the second pin. I also could have tried warping beginning at Cr4 or Cr3 or Cr2 … or even one of the sides (it’s like anarchy, isn’t it, when you abolish the rules?) I didn’t like the unvertical way it looked, but it’s interesting that weaving begins at Cr4—if you don’t tie on a second color. If you do tie on a second color, you could add it at any corner (more anarchy!).