I’ve been putting off writing this one because I thought I already had. Unlike the method in Part 5, I actually like this one a lot and have found it quite useful. For patterns that have a lot of O3s combined with U3s—particularly those with the U3/O3, O3/U3 star motif—this is a great warping configuration. (You can also use L1/2-4 for such patterns, but L1&2/3&4 will usually look better). I plan to post several new patterns soon that will show examples using this warping method (see Lattice Borders and variations for examples).

Lattice Borders variation 1—this method is the tidier method

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I may eventually say the same thing for all the two-layer, two-color warping configurations; I don’t use them often, but it’s useful to know how to do them when you want them. This one is probably my least favorite warping configuration which is interesting to me because it’s the same configuration generally used on a rigid heddle loom—warp one color, weft another. If you want to practice a weaving pattern you have in mind for a rigid heddle project, this pin loom warping configuration should be useful for that—especially if every odd row in your RH project is plain weave.

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In all my years weaving I think I’ve only used this warping configuration once before tonight, but I could be wrong. In the green-and-white finished sample square you can see the interesting effect, along the top and bottom, of changing colors L2-only, so I’d say this configuration is worth exploring.
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It’s not often I find the need to change colors on layer 3 (L3). In fact, I’ve avoided it. However, this week I stumbled across an effect that showed up only on the back (in the L1 warps) of a square I wove. In order to get it to show up on the front I needed to change colors on L3 (and redesign the pattern).

Front and back of square

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It’s ridiculous to keep writing the same information over and over, but it seems sensible to have a series of two-color weaving posts in consecutive order on this blog. The information in this post is reprinted and slightly updated from a post previously published on Windsweptmind.com. If you want basic information on changing colors for layer 4 (L4) only, visit that post.

This series addresses changing colors and …

Working in Ends As You Go Read More →

This post begins a series of two-layer warping (2LW) instructions. I haven’t done much exploring of this weaving method, and haven’t invented many patterns yet. There are a number of patterns available in 100 Pin Loom Squares by Florencia Campos Correa and there are a few available in the vintage pattern booklets on eLoomaNation.com. And I’m in the process of inventing more.

Please check out my video series demonstrating the techniques described in this and the following posts.

2LW Part 1—Basic Twill
2LW Part 2—Twill Changing Direction


(I’m using stretchy wool for these squares, so it’s OK to warp more snugly.)

Samples featuring pink yarn and the Zoom Loom are the most basic method for 2LW. If you want to eliminate all the fancy distractions, follow those photos. By the way, if you are a Zoom Loom user, I strongly recommend you purchase a longer needle to make weaving more comfortable with its wide frame.

The turquoise yarn/cream-colored Weave-It photos will show how to prepare the loom if you wish to work the beginning yarn tail in as you weave. It also shows a warping variation at Cr2 that might make weaving a bit easier.


Anchor the yarn tail in the notch at Cr1. (If using a different loom you can tie a slip knot, leave the yarn tail hanging, or use a method that suits you.) Warp L1 as usual. Finish at Cr2.

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